Around the Planet

I have already talked about the Trans-Siberian Railway generally, and about what might be called the Trans-Siberian proper, which is the Moscow-Vladivostok route. However, a route which tends to be more popular with the tourists is the Trans-Mongolian. This route is the same as the Trans-Siberian as far as Ulan Ude, where it departs from the main Trans-Siberian line, going on to Ulan Bator, before crossing the Gobi Desert, and then going on to Beijing.

This route goes past the shores of Lake Baikal, giving the most stunning views to the passengers. If you want to spend longer on the shores of Lake Baikal, then get out at Irkutsk to do a bit of exploration. About one hour’s car drive away from Irkutsk is the popular lakeside town of Listvyanka, which has accommodation ranging from posh hotels to dorm rooms, as well as bed and breakfast with local people.

A number of tourists doing the journey choose to stop over in Ulan Bator for sightseeing, before finally travelling on to Beijing. Ulan Bator is a relatively plain city, but there are some good examples of interesting Mongolian architecture, such as the Gandan Khiid Monastery.

Some tour operators sell Trans-Mongolian packages with the option of stopping over en route to stay in traditional Mongolian tents, known as yurts, or camp by the shores of the lake.

People who have done the Ulan Bator-Beijing stretch of the journey in January say that the winter views are really magnificent, and the train warm and cosy. The Gobi Desert covered in snow is spectacular, and the train makes its way past massive herds of wintering gazelle and the occasional, isolated yurt, with wisps of smoke coming out of its chimney. Mongolia has a certain ethereal beauty in winter, and passing through this by train is quite magical.

Over the course of the journey, the restaurant car changes from Russian to Mongolian, and then to Chinese, providing a wonderful variety of food over the six days that it takes to make its way from west to east.

There are four-berth compartments available at either first class, or second class, as well as deluxe two-berth compartments with shared shower. Reports suggest that getting these slightly posher compartments are well worth the extra cost, and that they have very comfortable beds.

With prices ranging from £180 to £260, this is a really cheap way to get to China, and to have an adventure while doing it.

Beijing is a wonderful destination, with lots to see, and you are a mere overnight trainride away from the wonderfully fashionable metropolis of Shanghai. From Shanghai you can continue your journey by taking a ferry to Japan.

The Trans-Mongolian is considered by many to be one of the most enjoyable ways to cross Eurasia by land. It certainly seems to be a popular and well-loved route amongst aficionados - people who have done the Trans-Mongolian report that even though it is five to six days of sitting on a train, there is never a dull moment and always something to do. There is always plenty to see out of the window, interesting people to talk to, meals to be eaten, and beverages and alcoholic drinks to be had. The travellers get to know one another fairly quickly, aided by that informality and bonhomie so often found amongst international travellers. As a result, there is usually a bit of a party going on somewhere on the train each evening. If you can afford the time, I really can’t think of a better way to go from Europe to the Far East.